Abu Simbel – In 1964, the greatest archaeological rescue operation of all time commenced.
The complex temples of Pharaoh Ramses II, “The Great”, were dismantled and relocated, stone by stone, to a new position higher on the hillside.
International donations to fund the pioneering rescue plan were made from 1959, and the UNESCO-sponsored project began on site to save Abu Simbel from the rising waters of the Nile behind the Aswan Dam. When the water was released, the original location of the temples would be lost beneath the waters of Lake Nasser as they filled the valley. Each temple was sawed into stone cubes, and reassembled above the new water line.
The temple complex receives hundreds of visitors every day, including those aboard the cruise ships that offer an enviable perspective of this famous facade.
It is believed that the statues of Rameses at the entrance to the Great Temple or Sun temple were built to such immense proportions to scare enemies approaching from the Nile. It’s true that the statues can be viewed from a fair distance away, so large are they, but for the modern traveller the sight is awe inspiring rather than fear inducing.
Cruising Lake Nasser, we were awake before dawn to watch the sun illuminate the sky and afford us our first view of the temples. The sun rose, and as the sky lightened, Abu Simbel came into sight. The dawn bathed the mighty monument in a soft pink glow to the statues, the stones turning yellow as the sun climbed further into the sky. As we approached the edge of the lake, and the boat’s designated mooring point in front of the Great Temple, the 180-feet high statues grew to their full and largest proportions.
Although these temples are less refined than the those found in Luxor or Karnak, their size brings home the incredible engineering and archaeological feat undertaken to relocate them 65m higher than they were originally constructed.
The original temples were aligned so that the inner chamber would light up twice a year – 22 February and 22 October – during the Sun Festival, when the seated figures inside would be lit by the sun, with the exception of the Goddess of Darkness.
The temple’s engravings record the Battle of Kadash, and the resultant peace treaty – the first in the world, stories of Egyptian culture and worship of gods, including the tumescent Min, god of fertility whose presence is well documented. The reliefs are to be found throughout the temple, on wall reliefs, columns and the ceiling, although some areas are in poor condition.
Combined with the smaller temple next door, built for Queen Nefertari, the temple complex can be well-viewed in a day. Arrange an official tour through a reputable guide or company to ensure you do not miss your chance to marvel at this feat of engineering twice over.
